Dress & Diplomacy [22 March 2017, Copenhagen]

Invited talks: Kjerstin Vedel, PhD Fellow at Museum of National History at Frederiksborg. Vivi Lena Andersen, Archaeologist and Curator at the Museum of Copenhagen. Katia Johansen, Conservator. Birgitte Thaulow, Fashion designer

There is still much to learn about where, how and why diplomats are keys actors in the many ways the trade of textile and the culture of clothing is spread out on a global scale through time and space. The research theme chosen by Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset for CTR's Research & Development day is presented through a series of case studies investigating the impact of diplomacy and secret service in the area of Dress and Textile. 

The influence of diplomatic networks on fashion circuits has not yet attracted the attention of researchers in fashion history. Nonetheless the diplomatic archives conserve numerous documents of diverse types concerning directly the study of fashion and more generally that of taste. Attentive observers of the society of their time and of their contemporaries, diplomats, had an official and often political mission, thanks to marriages, births, dynastic events, celebrations of peace and treaties in which they participated in the place of their sovereign. They also served as intermediaries and indispensable relays in the movement of ideas, people and goods. Their role in the workings of the economy remains to be explored.

"Textiles and Diplomacy: Diplomats and Spies in the Early Modern Age", on 17th March 2016, was the first session of a series of conferences organized by Marie Sklodowska-Curie Fellow, Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset, (Horizon 2020) at the University of Copenhagen. 

“Dress and Diplomacy”, on 22sd March 2017, is the second part of the series.

Both experts and amateurs sharing an interest in how diplomats are a key factor in the trade and the dissemination of fashion across the globe are invited to share and discuss their thoughts during these sessions. 

These sessions will take place at the Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen, South Campus, Karen Blixens Plads 8 (KU2, 1rst Floor, Library & Meeting room 11B-1-05), 2300 Kbh S.  They are open to the public and free of charge. 

For further information and registration, please email:  

Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset: ctc16@hum.ku.dk

Centre for Textile Research/SAXO Institute University of Copenhagen

Wednesday 22sd March 2017 13.30-15.30

KU2 Karen Blixens Plads 8

CTR Library and meeting room 11B-1-05

Research & Development Day

Convened and introduced by Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset

Marie Sklodowska-Curie Fellow

Designing the Middle Ages: The Costumes of "Game of thrones" [conférence/video]

Conférence au Getty Museum de Michele Clapton, la créatrice des costumes de la série américaine « Game of thrones » (Getty museum). La construction d'un imaginaire médiévaliste et néo Renaissance.

Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715–2015 [exposition, Los Angeles]

Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715–2015 (LACMA Los Angeles, 10 april, 21 august 2016) explores the history of men’s fashionable dress from the eighteenth century to the present and re-examines the all-too-frequent equation of “fashion” with “femininity.” 

Beginning with the 18th century, the male aristocrat wore a three-piece suit conspicuous in make and style, and equally as lavish as the opulent dress of his female counterpart. The 19th-century “dandy” made famous a more refined brand of expensive elegance which became the hallmark of Savile Row. The mid-twentieth-century “mod” relished in the colorful and modern styles of Carnaby Street, and the 21st century man—in an ultra-chic “skinny suit” by day and a flowered tuxedo by night—redefines today’s concept of masculinity.

Drawing primarily from LACMA’s renowned collection, Reigning Men makes illuminating connections between history and high fashion. The exhibition traces cultural influences over the centuries, examines how elements of the uniform have profoundly shaped fashionable dress, and reveals how cinching and padding the body was, and is, not exclusive to women. The exhibition features 200 looks, and celebrates a rich history of restraint and resplendence in menswear.

The Economy of Dress and Textiles: Avenues of Trade, Production and Consumption in the Early Modern Period" (appel à contributions)

"The Economy of Dress and Textiles: Avenues of Trade, Production and Consumption in the Early Modern Period"
Dressing The Early Modern Network Conference
 
Appel à contributions pour jeunes chercheurs pour cette journée d'étude (15 septembre 2016, université de Bologne). Deadline pour la soumission des propositions : 30 avril 2016.

Pour en savoir plus, cliquer ici.

Out of the Dark and Into the Light? [appel à contributions]

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 5TH 2016

Out of the Dark and into the Light? Dress in the Early Modern Period and the Age of Enlightenment, 1400–1800

International Conference of Dress Historians

Saturday, 5 November 2016 The Art Workers’ Guild, 6 Queen Square, London, WC1N 3AT

Traditionally, ‘fashion’ has been framed by dress historians as a cultural phenomenon that started at the end of the Dark Ages, and which gained momentum over the course of the Early Modern period and the eighteenth century. However, with progressivist histories, and the term Dark Ages itself, becoming increasingly problematic from a historiographical perspective, we believe it is time for dress history to explore and challenge this model. We welcome papers that deal with alternative readings of sartorial consumption in these periods, whether it be fashionable or not.

CALL FOR PAPERS

Please submit your proposal for a twenty–minute paper to events@dresshistorians.co.uk as a .doc or .docx file (saved as firstname_lastname) that includes a descriptive paper title, a 200–word abstract, a 100–word biography, and contact information. We also encourage proposals for themed panels of three speakers. The deadline for submissions is 25 January 2016. Notification of the outcome will be advised by e-mail on or before 1 February 2016.

ADH MEMBERSHIP

Conference speakers will be able to attend the conference and speak, free of charge. However, we do require that all conference speakers are members of the Association of Dress Historians (or become members) in order to present at the conference. Annual memberships to the ADH are £15 for professionals or £10 for concessions, and includes a variety of benefits.

For more information about the ADH and membership, please visit www.dresshistorians.co.uk or email membership@dresshistorians.co.uk.

In Fashion. Clothes and pictures from the Renaissance and Early Baroque [exposition, Nuremberg, Allemagne]

La conservation de vêtements de la Renaissance et du début de l'âge baroque est unique. Cette exposition des collections du Germanisches Nationalmuseum de Nuremberg, en Allemagne, est exceptionnelle de par la rareté de ce type de collection. Elle est enrichie de pièces venant de collections de New York, Vienne et Stockholm.
Les vêtements de la collection de Nuremberg ont fait l'objet d'un programme de recherche et de restauration entre 2012 et 2015.

Nuremberg, Germanisches Nationalmuseum, du 3 décembre 2015 au 6 mars 2016.

Modes pratiques. Revue d'histoire du vêtement et de la mode - 1er numéro !

Le premier numéro de la revue Modes pratiques. Revue d'histoire du vêtement et de la mode paraît fin novembre 2015.

Numéro 1 : Normes et transgressions

Au point de contact entre la société, l’individu et les pratiques sociales, le vêtement est par excellence l’espace de l’imposition des normes et de leurs transgressions. Ce numéro se propose ainsi d’interroger toutes les formes de normes : des lois somptuaires du XVI^e siècle aux normes de décence sur les plages de Santa Monica, des normes religieuses en matière de blanc monastique aux transgressions de genre des Vogueurs et de leurs ancêtres des années 1920-1930. Ce numéro veut comprendre comment le vêtement peut incarner tous les types de normes et devient, de ce fait, l’objet et le moyen de toutes les transgressions.

Vous croiserez dans ce numéro :

des Gentils-hommes et Damoiselles défendus de superfluitez, 

des couturières déguisées, 

des folles en bal, 

des hommes canons et des hommes moyens, 

des ouvriers en blouse, 

des forces de l’ordre dans de beaux draps, 

une fée du travestissement, 

un hygiéniste-réformateur allemand promoteur de vêtements sains, 

des inspecteurs du travail dans des vestiaires, 

des bonnes sœurs immaculées, 

des enfants en prisonniers, 

des dandys 1830, 

des stylistes soviétiques et des stiliagui, 

des Turcs réformés et des Turcs conservateurs, 

des Vogueurs prenant la pose, 

des hôtesses de l’air et des stewards, 

des lexicographes, 

des ouvrières victimes de la mode,

des adolescents dans leurs miroirs…

416 pages, plus de 400 images, 15 euros

En savoir plus sur la revue, cliquer ici.