lundi 8 décembre 2014

Fashion, the 84th Anglo-American Conference of Historians [call for papers]


Senate House, London, 2–3 July 2015
Proposals due by 15 December 2014
In a major collaboration with the Victoria and Albert Museum, the IHR is taking Fashion as the theme for its annual conference in summer 2015. Fashion in history is a topic which has come of age in recent years, as scholars have turned to addressing what is chic and what is style over the ages and across different cultures. The history of fashion, and the role of fashion in history, is not just confined to the study of dress and costume, but encompasses design and innovation, taste and zeitgeist, treats as its subjects both people and objects, and crosses over into related disciplines such as the history of art and architecture, consumption, retailing and technology. And across the world, fashion brings together museums, graduate teaching programmes, learned societies and the fashion profession around a common set of interests and concerns. The IHR conference next year we hope will be a perfect showcase and a meeting-point for the wide spectrum of specialists in this exciting field.
Our plenary speakers include Christopher Breward (Edinburgh), Beverly Lemire (Alberta), Ulinka Rublack (Cambridge) and Valerie Steele (Fashion Institute of Technology, New York). Proposals for panels on the themes of dress, imitation and emulation, taste and style, body-art, the fashion-industry and its media, fashionability and trend-setting, catwalks, fairs and exhibitions, innovation in interior design, architecture and public space, fashion education and technology will be accepted down to the middle of December. Individual paper proposals will also be accepted. Panels should comprise three papers and a chair, and proposals must include the name and affiliation of the speakers, the title of the panel and the titles of the individual papers. Please send proposals by 15th December toIHR.Events@sas.ac.uk Decisions will be made known once the Programme Committee has met in early January 2015.

lundi 1 décembre 2014

Fashion Mix [exposition, Paris]


Entre parcours personnels et histoire de la mode, Fashion Mix raconte une autre histoire de l'immigration, celles d'hommes et de femmes, artisans, créateurs, contribuant à faire la renommée de Paris, capitale internationale de la mode.
Fashion Mix est une exposition en hommage au savoir-faire français que créateurs russes, arméniens, italiens, espagnols, japonais, belges... font rayonner à travers le monde. De Charles Frederick Worth à Azzedine Alaïa, de Mariano Fortuny à Issey Miyake et Yohji Yamamoto, d’Elsa Schiaparelli à Martin Margiela, ou encore Cristobal Balenciaga, Robert Piguet, Paco Rabanne ou Raf Simons… autant de stylistes et directeurs artistiques étrangers qui révolutionnent la mode française, enrichissent son histoire.
Une exposition du Musée de l'histoire de l'immigration, Paris, du 9 décembre 2014 au 31 mai 2015.

dimanche 30 novembre 2014

RDV du mardi. La mode, quelle allure ! [cycle de conférences, Saine-et-Marne]

Les archives départementales de Seine-et-Marne proposent un cycle de conférences sur l'histoire de la mode et des costumes, lors de ses "Rendez-vous du mardi" 2014-2015.

Pour en savoir plus sur les modalités d'accès, cliquer ici.

A 18 h 30, entrée libre. Réservation obligatoire.


  • Mardi 18 novembre 2014
    Le costume à la cour de François Ier
    par Pauline Antonini, Conservatrice du patrimoine et sous-directrice des Archives départementales de Seine-et-Marne 

  • Mardi 25 novembre 2014
    Armorial historique des villes et communes de Seine-et-Marne 
    par Arnauld des Lions
  • Mardi 9 décembre 2014
    Les spectacles à Fontainebleau : costumes et accessoires de scènes
    par Vincent Droguet, Directeur du patrimoine et des collections du château de Fontainebleau
  • Mardi 13 janvier 2015 
    Les tisserands indiens de Thieux
    par Douglas Gressieux, Président de l'association Comptoirs des Indes
  • Mardi 10 février 2015
    L'uniforme au XVIIIe siècle : une fabrique du masculin
    par Odile Roynette, Maître de conférences en histoire contemporaine à l'Université de Franche-Comté
  • Mardi 17 mars 2015
    Le journal des Dames et des Modes
    par Hervé Joubeaux, Conservateur du musée Stéphane Mallarmé
    • Mardi 7 avril 2015
      L'évolution de l'uniforme des gendarmes
      par le Capitaine Elinor Boularand, directrice du musée de la gendarmerie nationale
  • Mardi 14 avril 2015 
    Les uniformes de la Grande Guerre
    par Jean-Pierre Verney, Collectionneur et historien français de la Première Guerre mondiale
  • Mardi 19 mai 2015 La mode sous l'occupation par Marie-Laure Gutton, Responsable du département Accessoires au Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris
  • Mardi 16 juin 2015
    Au bonheur des archives : le grand défilé
    par Isabelle Rambaud, Conservatrice générale du patrimoine, Directrice des Archives départementales de Seine-et-Marne / Cécile Fabris, Sous-directrice des Archives départementales de Seine-et-Marne / Catherine Jacq, Chef du Service des Publics des Archives départementales de Seine-et-Marne 

dimanche 19 octobre 2014

Des vêtements et des femmes [radio - France Inter - 19/10/2014]

Aujourd'hui, sur France Inter, l'émission "les femmes, toute une histoire", de Stéphanie Duncan, est consacrée au vêtement, sous le titre "Des vêtements et des femmes".
A écouter en direct ou en podcast.

vendredi 17 octobre 2014

Shakespeare l'étoffe du monde [exposition, Moulins, CNCS]


À l’occasion du 450e anniversaire de la naissance de Shakespeare, le Centre National du Costume de Scène explore l’univers du dramaturge au travers d’une centaine de costumes, pour la plupart portés lors des représentations françaises de pièces jouées depuis un siècle. Une exposition à voir du 14 juin 2014 au 4 janvier 2015.
De la découverte du théâtre élisabéthain aux interprétations modernes des comédies, tragédies et drames historiques shakespeariens, l’exposition capte les différentes facettes de cet univers théâtral, évoquées par les costumes des pièces les plus emblématiques : Roméo et JulietteLe Roi Lear ou encore Richard III.
Les grands noms de la scène française sont également mis à l’honneur : les comédiens Gérard Desarthe, Robert Hirsch et Maria Casarès ; les metteurs en scène Edward Gordon Craig, Charles Dullin, Ariane Mnouchkine et Patrice Chéreau ; les costumiers Charles Bianchini et Patrice Cauchetier. Toutes ces figures permettent d’appréhender les différentes interprétations des pièces shakespeariennes ainsi que les grandes institutions théâtrales, françaises comme anglaises.

Du 14 juin 2014 au 4 janvier 2015

Pour en savoir plus, cliquer ici.

mardi 14 octobre 2014

Producing the history of fashion in the West Symposium, may 2015, call for papers]




INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE
Producing the history of fashion in the West
Paris, 11-12-13 may 2015

Call for papers [deadline : 15 November 2014]

This conference organised by the "Appearances, bodies, and societies" Research Interest Group is open to researchers working on the history of fashion and appearances in Europe or elsewhere, from the end of the Middle Ages up to the present day. It will provide a multidisciplinary analysis of museum and university discourses, concepts, experiments and experiences, and of their intellectual origins and the institutional frameworks within which they are produced across diverse local and national contexts. The aim is to better understand the various ways of tackling the subject so as to highlight new areas of research convergence, thereby giving new impetus to international cooperation.
For several decades now fashion has ceased to be seen as a repertoire of perpetually evolving forms for the researcher to strive to observe, with an eye to drawing up some illusory and ultimately futile inventory. In the wake of works by Georg Simmel, Norbert Elias, Roland Barthes, etc., ways of dressing and adorning the body have been analysed using concepts which place the individual within a network of social norms. Research conducted in the history of the body has added new dimensions to this field of research (such as beauty, hygiene, etc.). This could have acted as the basis over the past sixty or so years for more numerous and open forms of international cooperation to emerge with regard to the contemporary processes that promote mass fashion and generate uniform means of shaping attitudes and postures. This has not been the case, however, and many barriers persist. There is still a lack of balance in recent research, with the Scandinavian and English-speaking worlds receiving greater levels of funding than the rest of continental Europe.

Overall it is a matter of considering all academic approaches to fashion so as to see what role they fulfil and what place they have in the way knowledge in general is built up and organised in different countries. Several additional observations may act as a useful guide for the approach this conference will take to specific current problems in research into the history of fashion:
Concepts. Whilst the French concept of "apparences" has led researchers to analyse the political and social norms governing dressing, that of "clothing", for instance, has accorded greater importance to the interplay of consumerist practices, identity construction, and the individual's relationship to their body. A comparable divergence may be observed between the concepts of "mode” and “fashion”. In France the forms taken by la mode are deemed to be ephemeral and thus of no intrinsic interest. Instead, it is said, research needs to focus on the social tensions generated between the peripheries and the centres dictating these forms. Such an attitude means that the forms of clothing and their evolution are regarded as relatively unimportant, whereas the experience of researchers working in different contexts has led them to reconstitute items of clothing. In northern and eastern Europe the issue of appearances has been tackled via those of the construction of the State and/or the nation. This has also transpired to a lesser extent in the study of regional fashions in Western Europe.
The way researchers view collections and timescales. The way in which researchers view objects varies from place to place, affecting the ways in which they apprehend “mode/fashion”. This transpires in attitudes towards existing items, towards experimental archaeology and the reconstitution of costumes, and in how to tackle the thorny issue of the vocabulary used to name objects. Is it possible to draw up an overview of these various differences, on the basis of experiments carried out in the field of experimental archaeology for instance? How can we go about analysing the sources of the history of appearance when the collections are incomplete or inexistent, especially for distant periods?
These frameworks have generated different forms of history of fashion, characterised in particular by the use of specific timeframes which depend on the criteria and methods chosen in the light of the prevalent concepts. Intellectual developments in place since the 19th century mean that is feasible to draw up a history of these timeframes, especially as they affect not just the histories of fashion but also the collections of objects and the way in which these are classified and presented.
Institutional factors and networks. Institutional factors and specific networks all too frequently transmit these differences and entrench them. These factors include the place accorded to the study of fashion and textiles in academic teaching and research, the relative importance accorded to the various disciplines used (history, sociology, anthropology, etc.), and the ways in which universities, research centres, museum institutions, and collectors work together, etc. Editorial strategies and differences in the ease with which researchers can access various tools for international cooperation further add to this general diversity.


Papers may address the following themes:

1 The history of the history of fashion. The state of research into the issue.
Authors, overviews, and exhibitions which have influenced the history of fashion. What publications have had an impact on the history of fashion in the past and in the present day? The nature and objectives of publications in the West.
Concepts, timeframes, and methods used for research.

2. Writing the history of fashion – issues and approaches
How can we go about conceiving of a history of contemporary fashion? How can we produce a history of fashion without objects (for distant periods)? What role does the technical and economic context play in the histories of fashion? What place are we to accord to the materiality of the body? And to visual cultures?

3 Teaching and presenting the history of fashion
What place is given to the teaching of fashion in school and university systems? What disciplines are used for the history of fashion? What links exist between universities and museums? What role do exhibitions play in the presentation and dissemination of the history of fashion?

4 International cooperation
What forms of international cooperation are open to researchers? What about undertaking projects, their organisations and funding? Problems and difficulties encountered.
What problems arise from the scale and extent of undertaking within structures for international cooperation?


Proposals (a title, a summary of about 2000 characters, and a bibliography giving the author's main publications) are to reach the following address before 15 November 2014: jean-pierre.lethuillier@uhb.fr

mercredi 8 octobre 2014

La guerre à travers ses uniformes [exposition]

Le musée de la chemiserie et de l'élégance masculine, à Argenton-sur-Creuse, présente jusqu'au 7 décembre 2014 une exposition sur les uniformes militaires, du XVIIIe s. à la Seconde guerre mondiale.

Pour en savoir plus, cliquer ici.